On a house built in the 2000s era, the opener install usually starts with pulling the old unit, checking the existing rail and header bracket for wear, and confirming the door itself is still balanced and in good repair before we hang anything new - a new opener on a door with a bad spring or warped track just fails faster. If the rail and bracket are sound, we reuse them and mount the new opener directly, which keeps the job faster and cheaper than a full rebuild.
We set the travel limits, test the safety reversal sensors, and program remotes and any keypad before we call it done. Given the cold winters this area gets, we also check that the opener's cold-weather settings (where the model has them) are dialed in, since a unit left on factory defaults can struggle once temperatures drop hard.